In February 2000 my father generously sponsored a trip to Israel for my mother (Sheila), my sister (Geri) and me.
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We flew out of Thunder Bay c. 16:20, February 5 and (after a brief stop in Toronto) spent most of Sunday in London Heathrow Terminal Four. Despite having only a vague plan communicated by e-mail we were able to meet up with Shawn Minor on his return trip from Israel (among many other countries). Thanks, Shawn, for taking the bus over from Gatwick.
After visiting with Shawn, we were able to find my mother's brother, Austin Griffiths, and my Aunt Rosemary.
Then we flew out to Ben Gurion airport near Tel Aviv. We arrived there near midnight and were met quite efficiently by a taxi driver who took us to the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Tel Aviv (Room 209). View from room Inside our room
Youtube version of Feb. 6, 7 & 8
After a buffet breakfast in the hotel, we joined our "Insight" Tour Group and boarded our bus to travel to the nearby ancient port of Jaffa (Yaffo). You may have heard it called Joppa. Cat Roofs We walked around the artists quarter, stopping in at Frank Meisler's metal sculpture shop. David & Bathsheba Idealized Jerusalem Tel Aviv from Jaffa
Some art we found in the street.
Our next stop was the Museum of the Diaspora at the Tel Aviv University, which
features many models of famous synagogues throughout the world.
Our afternoon was unscheduled and so we followed our guide's directions to
the bus that would take us to the Carmel Market. After a little looking around,
we tried falafel for the first time at an outside cafe. By the time we had
finished exploring the market, we weren't sure of the way back to the bus and
so we decided that, if we headed for the Mediterranean, we were unlikely to
miss it and then we'd be able find our hotel.
After
wading in the Med, Mum and I got separated from Geri as we headed back
to the hotel and had a little trouble identifying our hotel from the beach. Which one?!!
We had to
backtrack a bit, but we eventually found our way.
Supper that evening was with the tour group at a Yemenite Jewish restaurant.
The restaurant was kosher but the meat on the shish kebabs sure tasted like
pork. The waitress said, when I asked, that it was "chicken and turkish".
We
headed out in our bus c. 7:40 heading north up the coast. Our first
stop was at the Netanya Diamond Company. After viewing an infomercial,
we were steered into the diamond shop where the clerks were very eager
to do business. I got out of there pretty quickly.
Further up the coast we stopped to walk around the
Herodian ruins at
Caesarea. Next were some Crusader ruins and a Roman aqueduct.
Youtube version of Akko, Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee
Our drive to Acre/Akko took us past Haifa. After a cafeteria lunch we walked
around the old port city of Acre. As we entered the Inn of the Pillars courtyard,
a little kid tried to kick me in the pants. I thought of retaliating and
starting "The War of the Kicked Pants".
At Nazareth we were shown
the very spot at which Mary conceived!
Here's a picture for
Nelson Muntz. Haw haw!
Our hotel that night in Ginnosar is run by a kibbutz. After supper, we attended
a video about kibbutzim, but dozed through most of it. We snuck out to our
room (#42) during the Q & A time.
Youtube version of Akko, Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee
After mailing my first bunch of postcards, we
walked with the tour group through
the kibbutz to the
Sea of Galilee where we boarded a replica of a
"Jesus boat"
for our ride on the "Sea". Afterwards, I ran down to the
shore to get a film
canister full of the water and (accidentally) mud on my father's Tilley pants.
Youtube version of Capernaum, the Huleh Valley, the River Jordan,
Qumran and the "Dead Sea".
In Capernaum we viewed "Peter's Mother-in-law's House" and the 2nd or 3rd century
synagogue. No one really knows why this synagogue was built backwards, i.e. facing
away from Jerusalem. The earlier black stone synagogue underneath it may have
been the one Christ visited.
At the Mt. of the Beatitudes we were left to wander for a while through the
garden and the church building commemorating the site.
Our next stop, Gadot, north of the Sea of Galilee is a good place to view
the
Huleh Valley as well as snow-capped
Mt. Hermon. Fences and
signs all
around warned of land mines (on the
other side of the fences!) Our guide told us a lot about modern Israel's
history as we stood on top of what had been Syrian bunkers.
We made an unscheduled stop at Tiberias so that one tour member could use an
ATM. After that was done, we discovered our
driver had disappeared! He was
carrying a box when he returned and our guide said he'd been to a "pharmacy".
Lunch was at a cafeteria at a spot called Yardenit where people like to be
baptized in the River Jordan. There I
waded in the midst of some fish and
filled another film canister.
Though I had to struggle not to doze off, I enjoyed the ride down the Jordan
Valley during which I could notice green hilly Galilee clearly transforming
into rugged desert Judea.
We made a
half hour stop at Qumran during which I had a brief ride on a
camel.
We passed Jericho and Ein Gedi on our way to the Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza
Hotel right on the Dead Sea. It was near the end of the day
and so we had to hurry in order to get ourselves photographed
floating in
the not-terribly-warm Dead Sea. I filled yet another film canister.
After using the indoor pool/sauna facilities
as well we had a late buffet supper and then retired to our room (#910).
Youtube version of Masada and driving by
Qumran.
After Geri and I had another brief dip in the
Dead Sea, the tour group headed out again. Our first stop on Thursday was at the ruins of
Masada, which we reached by
cable car. Our guide told us the story of how 960 Jewish men, women and children
held out against the Romans for three years (A.D. 70 - 73) until finally the Romans used
Jewish slaves to build a
ramp up to the plateau and breached the wall. They
were greeted by silence, as the Jewish men had all agreed to kill their wives and
children and then themselves rather than be killed by the
Romans. RP on Masada
As we travelled to Jerusalem, we passed several Bedouin encampments: fairly
primitive--no satellite dishes, only antennae.
In Jerusalem we visited the Shrine of the Book at
the Israel Museum which houses the Dead Sea
Scrolls and then the
Holocaust Museum. I'm told that one of our group spotted
Oscar Schindler's tree, but I couldn't find it. I also hoped to find one for the
Ten Boom family, but didn't.
After getting set up in our room (#595) at the Jerusalem Laromme Hotel, most
of our group ate together at an Italian Restaurant. The meal dragged on and so
we had to leave right away once we were done. I didn't bother going to the bathroom.
This was a mistake.
Youtube version of our tour of the Old City at night.
Our bus wove through the narrow streets of Jerusalem as our guide described to
us the Chassidic Jews we saw all around doing their shopping for Shabat. Shabat
would be starting at
16:46 the next day and their cooking would need to be done
by then.
By the time we disembarked to begin our walking tour of the Old City, I
really had to go to the bathroom. There wasn't one open where we began at
the Zion Gate heading for the Dung(!) Gate. We were walking mainly through the
Jewish residential area and so there were no public WC's. I was extremely
distracted! Once we reached a spot overlooking the Cardo (ancient main road),
I spotted the word "Police" over a door in the courtyard below. I think they
were quite surprised to see this "American" tourist burst in begging for a
toilet. They directed me to a tiny pizza shop across the road. Afterwards,
much relieved, I rejoined our tour group with much rejoicing as we made our
way down to the
Western ("Wailing") Wall.
Youtube version of Mt. Scopus and Bethlehem.
As a group we began our day with a scenic view of Jerusalem from
Mt. Scopus.
Then we travelled by bus to the Hadassah Hospital in Bethlehem where we viewed
the Chagall windows in the synagogue (where we couldn't take photos).
Then we visited the Churches of the Nativity, St. Catharine and St. Jerome. The
Church of the Nativity contains a
cave which is honoured as the stable in
which Christ was
born. Tiny front door
Back door Jerome
Lamps
Then we visited a shop featuring olive wood carvings in which I displayed my ignorance of bartering. Outside were many
street vendors.
After showarma for lunch (lamb-fat soaked turkey in a pita), we viewed
Jerusalem again from the Mt. of Evil Council
and then visited one of the sites
that claims to be that of Christ's crucifixion and
resurrection
"The Garden Tomb"
or
"Gordon's Calvary".
At
Gethsemane on the Mt. of Olives I reached through the fence and touched a tree
that they have dated to the time of Christ. We also visited the nearby Church of
All Nations.
We stopped by the Western Wall again, but I didn't "go to the Wall" this time.
That evening while my Mum and Geri rested, I went alone to the Old City to
figure out where things were so that the three of us could find our way around the
next day. I entered by the Jaffa Gate and learned that one should not stand still,
especially not consulting a map, because someone is sure to approach and say,
"Would you like to see my shop?" When I said I was only trying to find the
Christchurch Hospice
(to meet a friend of a friend), he responded, "Oh, that's
right by my shop!" Well, I managed to shake him, find the Hospice myself, but
not my friend's friend.
Christ Church
Then I went exploring and ended up at the Western Wall again. By now it was
Shabat and the size and noise of the crowd praying there was quite impressive.
I decided I did want to place a prayer in a crack in the Wall (written on my
business card). To do so I had to reach over the head of a young man just getting ready
to pray. Dumb tourist.
On the way back I struck up a conversation with a man from New York. "See ya",
I said out of habit as we parted and then I thought, "Yeah, right."
As I was returning to the hotel, I waited at the lights with a Jewish girl
(wearing, as many of them did, a long skirt) who was talking Valley Girl with
her friend -- in a New York accent!
Back at the hotel our group gathered for our special Shabat meal.
When we visited the Mosques on the
Temple Mount, we had to remove our shoes and
avoid laughing or holding hands. We had our tour group photographed sitting
on the steps leading up to the Dome of the Rock (which stands approximately
where the Jewish Temple stood until A.D. 70.
Then we visited yet another tourist shop. A sign on the shelf read
"Don't just stand there; buy something!"
Youtube version of the Via Dolorosa and arriving at the Church of the Holy Sepuchre.
Next we travelled along the
Via Dolorosa
which traces the route Christ may have
taken to his crucifixion. There are some road stones at one point which were
placed there during Herod's time. So there is some possibly Christ did actually
walk on those stones at some point.
Youtube version of inside the Church of the Holy Sepuchre.
Youtube version of more scenes inside the Church of the Holy Sepuchre.
The Via Dolorosa leads to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre which is the more
anciently honoured of the two main sites claiming to mark
Golgotha and Christ's tomb. We
joined the shorter of the two lineups to
touch (through a small hole) one end
of the slab on which Christ allegedly lay. RP by the Sepulchre
After falafel again at a cafe in a
square, accompanied by noon hour church bells,
we went to "David's Tomb" and
"The Upper Room", which is Crusader-built with
Muslim additions. It may be near the site, but it ain't "it".
That afternoon as my Mum, Geri and I walked to the Jaffa Gate, we passed the
New York man with whom I'd spoken the day before. We greeted each other.
Mum, Geri and I did some shopping in the Armenian market. I saw several
ceramic plaques with "Shalom, y'all" on them. I suggested to the young man
manning the door of one shop that they should sell "Shalom, eh?" to Canadians.
I wrote it out for him and, though I'm not sure he understood, he said he'd show
it to his father. Let me know if you go to Jerusalem and see them for sale, eh?
Youtube version of my walk around the ramparts, Sheila and Asher, and a quick pan of our hotel.
After Mum and Geri went back to the hotel, I started
walking the ramparts
(starting at the Jaffa gate and heading north). However, once I reached the
Temple Mount, I realized I wouldn't be able to walk on the wall anymore. I had
to come down into the Old City (or go outside it, but I didn't want to miss
the sights). I checked my map, headed out and proceeded to get lost. I followed
some monks along the Via Dolorosa for a while, but soon lost them. Then I hooked
up with a tour group. We ended up at the Western Wall and so I walked back to
the Jaffa Gate from there. Two Australian (?) women asked me how to get out
of the city and I was able to direct them to the Dung Gate!
That evening we had supper at the nearby YMCA. I compared the English half of
the menu with the Hebrew half and pointed out to the waitress that in Hebrew
the chicken schnitzels cost eight shekels less than they do in English. She said
the Hebrew price was the right one. No one in our group ordered it and so I didn't
get to see what they would have been charged.
Then we attended the Israeli folk music show in the auditorium. Two of the
songs I liked the best "Halleluya" (which has a sort of "Mack the Knife" feel)
and "Yerushalayim Shel Zahav" turn out to be on the CD I bought in the hotel
gift store and so I've been listening to them a lot and feeling a little gooey
on the inside when I do.
The trip back had its minor adventures, but I won't bore you with them here.
Netanya, Caesarea, Acre, Nazareth, Ginnosar: Tuesday, Feb. 8
The Sea of Galilee, Capernaum, Mt. of the Beatitudes, Gadot, Tiberias,
River Jordan, Qumran, Dead Sea: Wednesday, Feb. 9
Masada, The Shrine of the Book, The Holocaust Museum, Jerusalem Night Life:
Thursday, Feb. 10
Mt. Scopus, Bethlehem, Mt. of Evil Council, The Garden Tomb,
Gethsemane, The Old City: Friday, Feb. 11
PO Box 14037
Jaffa Gate, Old City
Jerusalem 91140, Israel
Tel +972 2 627 7727
Fax +972 2 628 2999
christch@netvision.net.il
The Temple Mount, The Via Dolorosa, Everest Cafeteria, David's Tomb,
"The Upper Room", Armenian Market, Walking the Ramparts, Israeli Music Show:
Saturday, Feb. 12
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Last Update: June 6, 2016